2.       Once you reach the bend of the hook bring the thread over the hair and behind the bend of the hook. Make three or four more wide turns of thread past the bend to create the core of the extended body section. The extended body should only extend past the bend about one-quarter of the over all hook length.

3.       The butts of the elk hair should now be flaring out from the last wrap of thread. Wind the thread back to the bend and make one wrap of thread on the inside of the bend. With your finger flare the butts out and pull them back covering the extended body core on all sides. Transfer the butts to your right hand and with your left-hand make one complete tight turn of thread over the hair and in front of the bend. Now, with your left hand continue to wrap toward the eye with tight wraps of thread creating a segmented over body of elk hair until you get to about three eye lengths behind the eye of the hook. Make two or three tight turns of thread on top of each other at the end of the over body.

4.       Clip off all the extending hair butts at the front of the body. The body portion of the fly is now complete.

5.       Clip out another segment of dyed yellow elk hair about the size of a pencil, clean and stack to even the tips. Hold the yellow elk hair on the top of the body and measure for the correct length. The wing should extend to the end of the body. The wing tie in point is directly on top of the body tie off point. Transfer the wing hair to your left hand and make two loose turns of thread over the wing hairs at the tie in point. Slowly pull and tighten the thread and continue to wrap and tighten the wing with two or three more tight turns of thread. As the butt ends of the hair flare out continue wrapping through the butt ends until you have the thread in front of the wing butts.

6.       At this stage the wing hairs are flared and are not lying down over the body. To correct this, pull the wing hairs together on the top of the body. With the thread make one loose wrap of thread forward over the held down wing hairs. DO NOT tighten the first wrap of thread over the wing. Make a second wrap of thread over the first wrap and then wrap back to the wing tie in point. This loose wrap of thread is only used to hold the hairs in place lying down over the body of the fly. Now add a drop of cement at the wing tie in point.

7.       Take the prepared hen feather and place it on top of the yellow elk hair wing and roll it around the under wing. The tip of the feather should extend slightly past the body of the hopper. Tie the over wing in place on top of the under wing and bring the thread forward and over the feather in the same way you tied down the under wing. Make a loose wrap in the same place you wrapped the under wing down and bring the thread back to the front of the body. Clip the over wing stem off and add a drop of cement. When the wings are all tied in they should all be tied in at the same point on the hook. The under wing should be tied off on top of the body tie off point and the over wing would be tied in on top of the underbody tie off point.

8.       I don't add legs to the Henry's Fork hopper because I believe the collar created when the bullet head is tied in give a good impression of legs. Select some natural gray elk hair and cut out a clump about the size of a pencil. Clean and stack to even the tips. Remove all the short hairs from the bunch. Wrap the thread to the eye of the hook and place the hairs on top of the hook with the tips facing forward. The hairs should extend about one hook length past the eye of the hook when the butts are tied in just behind the eye. Push the hairs down over the eye and around the hook completely covering the eye. Make one loose turn of thread around the hairs and then slowly tighten the thread while making two or three more tight turns of thread. The hair should be tied in as tight as possible. Now, clip off all the butts as close to the tie in point as possible. The butts of the head should be touching the end of the body. Cover all the head butts with thread and add a drop of cement over the tied in butts.

9.       With your fingers separate the hairs extending over the eye of the hook and push them back over the eye. This next step is made a lot easier if you take about a one inch piece of one-quarter inch black garden drip system tubing and push it over the hairs and past the eye of the hook until the tubing is just in front of the beginning of the body of the fly. Take the thread and make two loose turns of thread around the hairs just in front of the end of the tubing. With the tubing still in place tighten the thread and then make two or three more very tight turns of thread around the hair. Pull the tubing off and you should have a round bullet head with the eye showing out the bottom portion of the head.

10.       Whip finish the fly just behind the head and add a drop of cement to the thread collar. Take your scissors and trim off all the hair tips that are on the bottom half of the fly just behind the head tie off point. I like to add a drop of cement on the head itself and let it soak into the hairs that make up the bullet head. Your Henry's Fork Hopper is ready to head to Idaho and see if you can catch one of the rainbows this fly was designed for.