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1. Begin by laying down a smooth base of thread from about one to two eye length behind the
eye to the bend of the hook. Either create a small thread hump or a small dubbing ball at the bend of the hook with no more than three wraps of thread or dubbing directly on top of each preceding wrap. This thread hump or small dubbing ball will separate the tail fibers and create a SPLIT TAIL at the bend. I prefer the thread hump as it does not add any
bulk at the tail of the fly. The choice is yours.
2. Cut about eight to twelve microfibetts and tie them in on the top of the hook at about mid shank. Secure the fibers in with tight turns of thread until you get to within two to three turns of the dubbed ball at the bend of the hook. Separate the fibers into two sections and pull the nearest section down and in your direction while continuing to wrap to the budded ball. The fibers left on the top of the hook should roll around the hook and the fibers you are holding should be tied in on the side nearest you. When done right, you will have a split tail with equal fibers on the far
side and the near side of the hook. Return the thread to about mid shank or about
one-third hook length behind the eye. This is the wing tie in point.
3. Select two matching duck wing quills with the thinnest quills you can find. Cut one section from each feather at approximately the same location on the feather. Each section should be about the length of the hook shank in width or shorter. Even the tips of the quill sections with the concave side facing each other. Measure for proper wing height and straddle the hook shank with the quills at the tie in point with the tips facing the bend of the hook with the curve of the quill pointing up. The quills should be at about a 45 degree angle to the hook shank with the mid point of the quill sections at the point where the thread is hanging on the hook. Make sure the quills are held tightly between your thumb and forefinger.
4. Make one wrap of thread up the near quill, over the top of both quills and down the back side
of the hook. Pull the thread straight toward you while cocking the quills with your left hand slightly up. Remember to hold the quills tightly
between your thumb and forefinger. As you tighten you will notice the butts of the quills begin to come together
accordion style. Make another wrap of thread over the first thread wrap and repeat the same process as before. Make three to four more wraps of thread towards the eye of the hook. Check the wings position on the hook. If it is correct hold the wing by its tips again and trim the butts. This will keep the wing from shifting while you trim the butts.
5. With the forefinger of your left hand, place your finger nail
on top of the hook just behind the wing and slide it toward the eye until you get to the wing tie in point. This will pop the quills apart and spread the wing.
Bring the thread back to the wing tie in point and make one loose wrap between the wings and behind the far wing. Pull the thread towards the eye until you have the wing positioned the way you want. Make one complete wrap of thread around the hook. Bring the thread up under the near wing and pull the thread toward the eye until the near wing is positioned the way you want. Make another turn of thread in front of both wings thin
wrap back to the tail tie in point.
6. Place a small amount of dubbing on the thread and dub a
tapered body until you get to the wings. Be careful when dubbing through the wings as the dubbing may catch the quills and separate them. Continue dubbing until you get to one eye length behind the eye. Tie off without building a thread head and add a small drop of cement to secure the
whip finish. Your No hackle is ready to fish.
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